Trip to the South

In all the travelling we have done, we never ventured to the deep south on a vacation. I’m not sure what we expected to see, taste, or experience, but it’s nothing like the imagination you build. Oh sure, we’ve flown in and out of Atlanta airport, but it hardly is representative of the south. I filled my head with Deliverance images of some kid playing a two-string banjo on the porch and certainly MAGA signs everywhere. But we saw neither. In fact, we haven’t seen any MAGA garbage since leaving Texas. Now I’m beginning to worry more about my home state. What we did see was lots of beautiful country and friendly people. We did see parts of our history still reminding us of the racial issues in the south, such as a sign over a bridge in Alabama named after David Duke. I assume it is the same Duke of KKK history. I don’t know for sure, but if so, it is a sad reminder of our countries past and even more sad that he’d be celebrated in naming something after him.  Anyway, we’ve been pleasantly surprised throughout this trip more with what we haven’t seen.

The Spanish Moss is so beautiful and most all the flowers are in bloom. Trees are beginning to leaf out and temps are just about ideal. Even the rain has decided to hold off so that we can enjoy our time here and the visit with Jen’s cousin Bettie and her husband John. I’ve written about them before, and we really enjoy their company when travelling. I think it is important to travel with people your enjoy the company of. The bonus is that Jen and Bettie plan out the itinerary so that John and I just tag-a-long and enjoy. We are on Hilton Head Island and going the short little trip to Savannah to enjoy the history there and the mystique of the dead. Day one, we met them for check-in and some catchup chill time. A simple supper and a walk on the beach were revitalizing from the two days journey through the south.

Day two has started off great with a rare morning to sleep-in guilt free. Jen and Bettie went for a early morning sunrise walk on the beach while John and I slowly got moving and enjoyed coffee, surprisingly good coffee at that. We are headed to Savannah for two tours and dinner returning later for some balcony time before retiring for the evening. Since I’m still doing my magnetic pulse regenerating bone stimulation treatment, I’ll be up late and will return to this comment on the day’s activities.

A long day spent in Savannah with everything seemingly going our way. Very crowded due to St. Patrick’s Day, we lucked into prime parking each and every stop we made. We had ample time between each tour and dinner, giving time to do some park sitting and chocolatier sampling. The carriage ride, although not some romantic ride through Central Park, was informative and hit all the major highlights of the history that made Savannah what it is today. This town relishes its history and such laws to preserve as not changing any original identification of a building and if you want to know what the store really sells, you must look to the windows. The twenty-two squares are all properly spaced throughout the downtown area. They each have a church facing into them and some have two. Each carries its own historical figures celebrated in bigger than life structures to honor them. The carriage ride is a slow amble through town allowing at a leisure much better than walking, especially if you’ve recently had back surgery. John and I walk at our own pace as Jen and Bettie walk at theirs. We’re always lagging behind, but we make it in the end. We truly loved the tour and I certainly learned more than I would have on my own. A little piddling around trying to figure out the next move.

My psychic interaction with the group must have been working overtime, I want to make it clear, I never opened my mouth once, but somehow, they decided on Moon River Brewing for a bite to eat. For them, Arnold Palmers, but for me and especially when I’m on some old oaken floor building with brick décor’, oh the stories that could be told from all of the dripped alcohol. I naturally could look no further than Porters and Stouts. I settled on Porter, but had we stayed another twenty minutes, I would have indulged in the local made stout, after-all it is St. Patrick’s Day. Some buffalo wings and Texas Caviar and chips to fill us up. Ash the waitress was great and is one of my favorite things to do, having a good time with the wait staff.

Satisfied heart, soul, and stomach, we headed to the next tour across town next to the river, the Boniventure Cemetery. With imagery from the Garden of Good and Evil looming in the air, we took a guided golf tour through the burial grounds. The oldest residents were family members of the original plantation owners, but after selling the land for future development of a cemetery, the next oldest residents are some fifty years younger. There were over two hundred Confederate Soldiers marked with a CSA cross. From Generals of the Civil War to foot soldiers, they are all remembered. But there are some other notables buried here. The songwriter and musician, Johnny Mercer. All family members stones and the bench in the corner all have famous lines from his songs. There is the famous writer, Conrad Aiken. Intriguing listening to the story behind his writings. Somewhat dark, especially for a Harvard graduate, but I will have to try one of his books on for a good read. The statue made famous from the cover of the book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, we saw where it was originally located. Now they have moved to a museum in town to protect it from the hands of thievery. We saw lots of looting, such as the sword from General Wheaton that was originally placed with a bronze replica of his helmet and belt. The flowers were in full bloom and the temperature mild, making for probably the best experience one might encounter. The slow flowing Spanish moss hanging from the live oak harkens to a simpler but also more turbulent time that moved at a walking pace through life. It is evidence of a time where burial plots were as reflective of wealth and status just as much as the title on ones door or the prominence of their residence. Visiting the Jewish side of the of the cemetery, you find a more modest display of remembrance. There was one gravesite that held the remains of the ashes of ¼ of 344 Nazi held prisoners killed during the evil times of Hitler. It is the only grave in the cemetery holding multiple people as apparently there is a city ordinance limiting one per grave. We also learned why there were two entrances side by side. It is tradition for Jewish members attending a funeral to never leave through the same entrance as you arrived. They also wash their hands before leaving so no bad juju might leave with you to enter into normal society.  Another 5-star tour and learning experience.

We returned to downtown and hung out in one of the town squares people watching. Believe me, when there are celebrations taking place all over town due to the day of green, there was plenty to be entertained by. I’ve always referred to this as the game, Looney Bin. Then the wonderful idea to visit the Chocolatier for desert later after dinner and back home to the resort on Hilton Head Island. Desert procured, we headed to the dinner at the Pirate’s House. A real life residence that provided shelter for the less than honest seafaring criminals. Now, romantically celebrated with tours and gift shop items lead by some young fellow that looks more the tv made-up version of a pirate than any real pirate. However, the modern facilities are now converted to serve food and ambience. From the fried calamari to the bread with marmalade and honey butter it started off right. I was locked in on the Blackened Snapper with cheese grits and collard greens. When in the south, eat southern food. I was in heaven and very thankful for John and Bettie treating us to dinner. Truly more than we deserve, but ever thankful non-the-less.

With no room left, although we all thought more than two thoughts about the key-lime pie and Crème Broulee’, we all pleaded full and unable to eat another bite. If we can muster up another two days like this, we are in for a trip to remember.